Stabilization / Penetration

- Stabilization technique development

Because many biologically active substances are unstable and sensitive to temperature, pH, light, and oxidation, encapsulation process is needed to protect against unwanted degradation and also to target specific and controlled release of the active substance.

Antioxidants are substances that protect effective cosmetic materials such as fragrances, natural fats, and oils from unstable molecules known as free radicals. Antioxidants interact with and stabilize free radicals and prevent damage caused by free radicals. (Figure 1) For formula stability, antioxidants should be soluble in the ingredients that are intended to be protected. Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) are two common oil soluble antioxidants. Tocopherols (Vitamin E derivatives) are weaker antioxidants than BHT or BHA but are much friendlier to the skin. Propyl gallate is an example of a water-soluble antioxidant.

Many ingredients in cosmetics, especially anti-aging related products, are unstable and break down quickly when exposed to atmospheric oxygen and light. These active ingredients are hosted inside complexes with cyclodextrin molecules to protect them from air and light. (Figure 2)

Retinol is an excellent anti-wrinkle ingredient but is very sensitive to oxygen and light. Just 0.1% of wrinkle-busting retinol in a cream can cause skin irritation. But when formulated with cyclodextrin as an inclusion complex, much higher concentrations of retinol can be added to cosmetics without causing skin irritation, since the release of retinol is controlled by cyclodextrin. This significantly increases the effectiveness of the anti-aging products.

High pressure homogenizers offer cosmetic companies an unprecedented level of control over their products, including emulsions, creams, sunscreens, makeups, and fragrances. By precisely controlling particle size reduction to the optimal level with a uniform distribution, microfluidics help to provide customers with tangible competitive differentiation for their products with improved quality and stability. High pressure homogenizers are widely used in the cosmetics industry to acquire homogenous and stable emulsion. Through high pressure homogenization, particle sizes can be reduced down to nanometers. In high pressure homogenizers, particles are forced to pass through a special homogenizing valve by high pressure energy and are processed under the actions of shearing force, turbulence, void effect, acceleration, and impact. Particle size reduction and efficient dispersion can prevent phrase separation, distribute perfume homogenously, and intensify the color. (Figure 3) The key factor for evaluating a cosmetics product is whether it can be easily absorbed into the skin. Because finer cosmetics products can be absorbed into the skin more easily, high pressure homogenization can be used to obtain high quality products that can be effectively absorbed into the skin.

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